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If your 12-outlet surge suppressor is metal, then we could install a shielded cord.  But if the unit is plastic, we are not able to do such a modification.

1) Dimmers only produce dirty electricity, microsurge electrical pollution, or emi (same thing different names) when they are turned on.  The emi goes away right away when the switch is turned off.

2) By "on" I think you  mean in the fully-bright setting on the dimmer switch.  It is still producing a great amount of EMI.

3) Yes you can absolutely!

4) There is no "safe" distance because the EMI is also placed back onto the wiring of the home.  So those signals go everywhere throughout the home.

A true cable modem will have just 1 or 2 Ethernet ports on them.  Most have 1.  This port connects to the WAN/Internet port on your router.  If a cable modem has 2, that means it supports trunking (advanced thing for super high speeds).

Modems don't handle IP addresses - your router retrieves an IP address through the modem.  This all happens automatically.  If for some reason you had a problem at first - power down the modem for 30 seconds.  Leave the router ON.  Then power the modem back up.  The router should fetch itself an IP address for the Internet (Public IP address) through the cable modem.

The modem you have supports voice.  Routers won't have anything to do with that part.


You say Netgear Router - but is it actually a cable modem?  Does it have a screw-type cable TV connector on it?  If so - it's not a router, but instead either a modem or a modem/router combo.  You would not be able to use this with another modem.


You say your cable cord that comes out of the wall.  You mean the router coaxial cable TV cord?  It sounds like you have 2 cable modems.  Only one of them is probably active.  You need to use that one.  Or you need to call Comcast and have them activate the one you want to use.  Then, that modem should hook into our router.  The CM500V modem is the one you want to use.  That's just a plain modem, not a router.  Then you would use our router with it.  It will work very nicely and be the ideal setup.

Your cable TV box for watching cable TV just hooks into a coaxial cable wire.

The optimal number of Stetzerizer filters needed for a living space varies greatly. Some of the variables in your electrical system that can determine the number of filters needed are:

  • How many circuits you have
  • How many square feet your living space is
  • The condition of the power grid in your area
  • Your neighbors' electrical usage
  • The electronics in your home (computers, TVs, etc)
  • Appliances and lighting in your home

Our preferred method of choosing the right number of filters looks at the two items in bold above: how many circuits are in your breaker panel and how many square feet your total living space (including garage and basement) is.

Count each physical switch as 1, no matter if that switch is taking up 2 spaces or not. Sometimes you can have 2 switches in one space, so then count both switches. Count all switches, no matter what the switch is for (count your furnace/AC, dryer, everything). Some circuits are 240 volt circuits that we cannot put a filter on. However, other circuits will require 2 filters - where you have electronics such as TVs, computers, etc. So it evens out. Just count each switch that you can turn on/off as 1 and add up the total number you have. Write down or remember this number. We recommend about 1 filter per circuit.

Now, take the approximate number of square feet in your total living space. We recommend about 1 filter per 100 square feet. If the number of circuits is different than the number of square feet divided by 100 (1700 square feet would mean 17 filters for example) then we go towards the lower number. For example, if you have 2000 square feet but only 15 circuits, we would recommend trying 16 or 17 filters.

If you have any other questions, please let us know! We would be happy to help you determine the best number of filters to purchase.

Are you wondering "How do I install Stetzerizer Filters" or "what is the best way to install them"? Here are our current recommendations - these should help you get the best results you are looking for!


Thank you for your purchase of the original, authentic, and genuine Stetzerizer products! We hope you like them. If you need any help or have any questions, you can get instant answers to many questions in our Support System - http://support.electrahealth.com As always, if you need personal help please call us up for live help at 1-815-986-7974 or toll free 1-888-480-7759


  1. Start at the biggest sources of dirty electricity – your TV & entertainment areas, your computer areas, outlets closest to dimmer switches, furnaces, etc.
  2. Use your meter and turn things on and off prior to installing filters to identify which devices are the worst. Plug in the meter, and give it a few seconds. It should count up for a few seconds, and then “level off” around an average reading. The reading constantly updates on the meter, but you should be able to get an idea of an average.
  3. Place 1 or more filters (2 recommended for TV and computer areas) into the same outlet – you can use standard outlet adapters and surge suppressors/power strips with the filters too. The filters will make a pop or crackle sometimes when you plug them in – this is perfectly normal and safe, and there is nothing wrong with the filter. The filter is drawing reactive current and the high frequencies to it, so this is normal.
  4. The filters always work best when they are in the same outlet or power strip as devices that are producing dirty electricity. That is to say, the closer the filter is placed to the source of dirty electricity the better.
  5. You’ll notice that installing a filter into one outlet also affects other outlets on the same circuit breaker, reducing the number of filters you need. You do not need a filter in every outlet, but you should check every single outlet.
  6. The numbers will be reduced the best when every circuit has at least one filter on it. Do not leave some areas unfiltered, even if you don’t use that area very often. Leaving an area unfiltered will affect the rest of the house.
  7. You can turn off the power to unused areas and then you don’t need a filter. But if the power is on – make sure that there is at least one filter and no outlets are high.
  8. When we install a filter, it usually reduces the reading from 75-95%. If the reading is 30 or below, then that is great! If the reading is still above 30, try installing another filter. Look for an additional 20% reduction.
  9. For example: If the reading is 500 to begin with, you install 1 filter and maybe it goes down to 50. That is great! A 90% reduction! However, 50 is still not the ideal of 30 or below, so try installing a second filter. That second filter may bring it down to 40 or below. If so, then from 50 down to 40 is a 20% reduction so we recommend keeping the second filter there. If the reading goes down to 47 from 50, that is not a very big reduction so move onto the next outlet.
  10. If you get stuck in one spot and the numbers don’t come down very well – just keep moving around the house and come back to the difficult spot last. Usually the numbers will come down nicely when you have filters throughout the rest of the house.
  11. Avoid using the filters in outlets that are extremely loose. Outlets that don’t grab onto the prongs at all should be replaced with a new outlet for safety reasons.
  12. If you need help or have questions please contact us ?

Other recommendations:

  1. Eliminate the use of wireless devices in the house. If you have a “Smart Meter” – do whatever it takes to get it off your house!
  2. Cordless phone systems, WiFi (wireless Internet) – should be replaced with corded devices.
  3. We also recommend using a TriField Meter (see on our site) to check for current on metal plumbing pipes. This can cause huge magnetic fields in the house. It’s also very easy to fix! The Trifield Meter will also help you locate wiring errors in the house. Wiring errors are very common and cause unwanted and harmful magnetic fields. Read more about wiring errors and "net current" here.
  4. Don’t use dimmers, compact fluorescent bulbs (CFLs), or low-voltage (often halogen is low voltage) lighting. LEDs are also bad – avoid them. We recommend energy-saving clean halogen lighting as a 100% clean alternative to incandescents. Incandescents are great and we recommend them too - but they do use a lot of electricity.

Additional grounding adapters would not help.  Instead, you want to look to move other ungrounded device power cords away from you.  If you have a power strip - replace it with our shielded power strip or surge suppressor.  Distance is your friend - try to move things away.  If you have a monitor, make sure it has our shielded power cord.  Same with a printer if it uses a 3-prong power cord compatible with ours - use our shielded cord.  After you've done everything you can and moved things as far away as possible, if your levels are still not good, try unplugging unnecessary things.  If there are unshielded cords you can unplug and the readings go down, then you may consider using a conductive tubing to put over your cords and then ground the tubing.

In the end you will be left only with what is coming from inside the walls (the live power cables inside walls).

Well, all of those can potentially cause ringing in the ears.  So can magnetic fields.  The only way to figure it out is to have meters for measuring, and compare how you feel in different environments.  Have you traveled much at all during these decades, or have you been at the same spot all the time?  If you have traveled and stayed in other environments, then your EMF/EMR exposure HAS varied during this time and your symptoms should have as well if they are being primarily caused by exposure.  I would really recommend traveling if you have not at all during this time.

Yes, absolutely!  It is plug-and-play when you receive it from us.  Just disconnect the power from your cable modem before hooking it up, that way your cable modem (some modems and providers are more clumbsy with this) is sure to recognize the new router, and it will work great for you!

OK so your cable modem is all plastic Ethernet port - therefore you don't have to worry about ground passing to the router.  Your router is metal and therefore ABLE to be grounded.  You could ground the router and the switches from one location using an Ethernet Grounding Adapter, and then isolate computers from this ground using the isolators.

If switches have plastic ports then yes they would be useful for isolation and isolators would not be necessary.  But I would still want to make sure each Ethernet run to such a switch would be grounded properly.

Our grounding products work in all countries.  We do currently ship to all countries.

1) Ensure that your outlets - all outlets you wish to use with our grounding products - are properly grounded outlets with a dedicated ground connection.

2) You must make sure that you have a proper plug adapter. A proper plug adapter will have a connection to your outlet's ground.  It will also have a 3-prong North American style outlet with the third round hole.  The round hole is the ground.  This is what our grounding products use to properly ground cords and devices.

3) Ensure that the outlet adapter "passes" or interconnects the ground from your style of outlet to the round ground hole (NOT either of the two flat or rectangle holes) in our style of North American outlet.

The grounding products will then work and serve you properly when these criteria are all met.

The Stetzerizer Filters we sell ONLY work with 90-130 volts.  They CANNOT be used with 220/240 volt countries.  You CANNOT use an adapter with the Stetzerizer Filters.

All other products such as routers and DNA filters will work with all countries - just be sure to read the description of the product to make sure for DNA filters.  But they usually work universally.

Does this answer all of your questions at the moment?