This one is more of a detector - not really a meter.  It is only to show when levels have reached EXTREMELY high power densities - enough to cause immediate noticeable harm to a great number of people.  It is for workers who work on this equipment, to help avoid them getting in the beams and frying themselves.

So I don't think a detector like this would be very useful at all except for measuring extremely high levels - being very very close in proximity to antenna.  For biological purposes - health purposes - like we always measure for in accordance with Building Biology standards - this type of detector doesn't cut it.

But it does serve to show people that this stuff is dangerous - and if it were not dangerous why would safety detectors like this even exist.  This isn't the only one - there are many RF safety detectors for antenna workers available on the market.

It looks like 5G is rolling out and utilizing a wide range of frequencies.  Some of those frequencies are 12 Ghz and below.  For this we are recommending the Safe and Sound Pro 2 Meter.

Another good alternative to that meter would be the Acoustimeter AM10.  However, the AM10 does not have as wide of a frequency range.  Its specs only go up to 8 Ghz whereare the Safe and Sound Pro 2 goes up to 12 Ghz.

Neither of these meters will cover *all* 5G (5th Generation - not to be confused with 5Ghz - 5G does NOT stand for gigahertz) frequencies.  They will cover some, and likely be able to show you when 5G is present.  But these meters may not be able to actually measure all of the frequencies emitted by 5G antenna systems.

Cable modems often have groundable Ethernet ports which are (not always, but often) connected to the coaxial (round screw cable TV wire) terminal.  Therefore they are often already grounded.  My preferred way of handling this is to put an Ethernet ground-loop isolator in between the cable modem and the router (if the router has metal groundable Ethernet ports).  This takes care of any concern of creating a ground loop without the need for measuring.

Next, if you have a desktop computer, you can ground your router via the desktop computer by hooking it directly to the router with a shielded ethernet cable.  Alternatively you could ground the router with an Ethernet grounding adapter.

Our preferred way of handling things now when a groundable router with metal ports is used is like so:

1) Have the router grounded via either the cable modem (must be tested so we know that is 100% passing ground to the router) or via a desktop computer (this is a sure way) or via the Ethernet grounding adapter (also a sure way).  If NOT grounding  and testing to verify the router via the cable modem then use the isolator in between cable modem and router to be safe.

2) Use an isolator on each port of the router except for the port that is being used to intentionally ground the router

3) Ground each device (desktops are already grounded) at their location.  This would be laptops and portable devices.

4) Preferably use the Ultimate USB to ethernet grounding adapter to ground the portable laptop/other device AT the device AND ground the Ethernet cable at the device as well.  This is preferred rather than grounding it at a central location (the router or switch).

5) For adding switches to the network, I recommend using metal switches and hooking them directly to the grounded router.  Then as described above use isolators for each device.  You only want to bring "ground" to the router and in turn to all of the switches from one reliable location - never more than one location!

If you are 100% sure the ethernet port on your modem has no metal tabs or balls inside of it, then you would not need the isolator in between the modem and the router.

I am from the middle of the country and speak without any accent - the correct way.  OK, that is a joke, but I have not had any complaints yet and have spoken with people from all over the world.  I can speak very slow and clear if that helps.

I am setting up a private ticket for the phone call.  We also record the phone calls so that you may listen to them (restricted to personal use only - no sharing with anyone or public posting whatsoever).  If you would like I can have them transcribed or summarized - there may be an additional cost to that.  I would say perhaps start with the recording if you have any trouble taking notes and if need-be let us know and we can write a detailed outline for you.

The best way for anyone to begin is to purchase 1 or 2 sessions here: https://www.electrahealth.com/Personal-Phone-Consulting-with-Shaun-Kranish--Owner-of-ElectraHealthcom_p_77.html

We then create the ticket, schedule the call, and use the ticket to place your recording(s) and any additional notes and answer questions that you may have.  It is a very effective system.  After you and I talk initially, we can definitely schedule a call with your electrical contractor as well.  I look forward to speaking with you next week!

Recessed lights are most commonly BR30 type bulbs.  There are, however, other BR and PAR sizes too.

We are still ABSOLUTELY urging everyone to stick with incandescent or energy-saving halogen.  Halogens are always OK as long as they are 120 volt bulbs.  Low-voltage halogen fixtures are not OK and must be avoided.  Your screw-in standard-sized bulbs (called a medium base) are going to always be 120 volt.  So you are fine there.

So stick with incandescent or halogen.  Incandescent BR30s, BR40s, and PARs can still be found (look very carefully to avoid LED) at Home Depot and other stores.  FEIT Electric makes a BR30, and we may soon stock them and sell them in bulk only.

While some LEDs appear nice, they always produce electrical pollution.  Some more than others, but every bulb does without exception.  It is impossible for there to be a completely clean bulb.  If we used a DC power system then yes, LEDs could be run without producing electrical pollution.

Apart from the EMF they produce in the form of "dirty electricity" or MEP/EMI, and radiofrequency, LEDs still product limited spectrum.  They have gotten better, but still limited immitators of natural spectrums.  Incandescent/halogen are also unnatural, but closer to "fire" so to speak.  So they are warmer and product a wide flowing spectrum similar to a glowing fire when compared to LEDs and CFLs and such.

Many LEDs also use blinking, called pulsed-width-modification.  They blink the light in order to create the brightness they want.  This is extremely hazardous to human health and very biologically active in many ways.  It is unnatural and should be avoided at all costs in my opinion.  It has been shown to cause serious health problems.

So check out your local stores or shop online for incandescent or halogen replacement for incandescent (medium base 120 volt) and you will be fine.

Hello,

Thank you for your questions - I will answer each one as best I can in line in bold:

Aloha,

I am currently reading EMF*D by Dr. Marcola and he mentions about your online store in this book and this is how I found your store. 

I have not yet had the opportunity to read his book, but I have heard from others that we are mentioned in EMF*D too!  That is great - I know we carry many unique products that are extremely useful and effective at reducing exposure.

I am looking for a safe way to use our iPhones with Ethernet and was wondering if you are able to help me.

With the help of Dr. Marcola's advice, we were able to connect our iPhones using shielded & grounded cat7 Ethernet cables. 

Are you absolutely sure you have grounded your shielded Ethernet cables?  I only recommend the round shielded cat6/cat7 cables that we carry.  I highly advice to AVOID all flat Ethernet cables.  In order for the cable to be grounded, it will either need to be plugged into a metal-ported (groundable ports) switch or router that you have ensured is already grounded OR you can use our Ethernet grounding adapter kit with the Ethernet cable to ensure it is grounded.  It is best to only ground it once, however, or a "ground loop" is created which is bad for EMFs.

The problem we are having is that since we are required to use a cell phone charger when using our iPhones w/ethernet, the EF level is almost 500 v/m (coming from the unshielded, ungrounded charger). Do you sell any items that help solve this issue? I am hoping you would carry shielded and/or grounded charger for iPhones and/or something we can buy to add grounding and shielding (tape?) to our current charger.

Yes, for all phone charging - the product to use is the USB Grounding Adapter.  You plug it into a properly-grounded outlet right next to where the charger is plugged-in.  Then you plug the adapter into the charger, and then plug your USB charging cord into our adapter.  This will have grounded your cord and reduce those electric fields as well as the "body current" measurement and "body voltage" measurements that can be taken.  Then there is no need for any weird jury-rigged contraption like tape or tube or anything.  Our USB Grounding Adapter takes care of it all.

Also, we have a Naturell bed canopy which I hope to somehow add grounding to. Do you have anything I could add conductivity to our canopy? 

The Naturell unfortunately is not externally-conductive.  It cannot be grounded.  At ElectraHealth we have for sale on our website a unique groundable version of the Naturell fabric.  It is the Naturell Ultra Conductive Canopy exclusively advertised on our website.  This new version of the Swiss Shield Naturell fabric is also more externally conductive so that it can be grounded and help put the sleeping area at an equal electrical potential.  It should also be better for RF blocking as well.  We haven't confirmed this yet with measurement, but the manufacturer has.

Then you would just need one of the Grounding Cords with alligator clip.  I also recommend weaving a conductive silver thread (we do not carry the thread) up one of the corners of the canopy and to the top and then down the other side or along all corners.  This helps put the entire canopy at similar electrical potential.

Lastly, my house (mostly the 2nd floor) has very high low frequency magnetic fields (somewhere between 10 and 80 mG). I have been working with electricians as well as the local power company for the last 2 months to identify the source but in vain. Do you have any items that could take care of this problem? The electricians fixed faulty grounding (we thought it would solve the problem, but it did not), the power company made sure their neutral wire is correctly attached to our house, etc

Are the fields coming from one side or corner of the house?  Or are they in the middle of the house mostly in the second floor?  Have you tried turning different light switches on/off to see if the fields significantly reduce when certain loads (lights/outlets) are turned off?  At first glance it sounds like a wiring error, but I would also want to make sure it isn't coming from the electrical service entrance.

What kind of water pipe comes to the house?  Is it metal?  If so please get this book and read it: EMF Bible - Current on Plumbing Pipes

I would also look to see where the cable tv wire comes to the house.  Even if you do not subscribe to cable tv or Internet, a coaxial (round - usually black) wire can still be coming to the house and be hooked up to the electrical system.  If this is the case, it can cause a HUGE amount of unbalanced current and therefore large magnetic fields.  If you do not use any cable services simply unscrew the wire and tape it with electrical tape so that it cannot touch anything metal on the house.

If you are using cable services, then use one of our Cable TV Neutral Current Isolators

Mahalo,C M

We currently do not.  However, we recommend cable that has individually foiled pairs (there are 4 pairs inside and each pair of wires is wrapped in foil) and then has an overall metal braid around the 4 pairs of foiled wired.  Cat7 usually has this configuration.  Some cat6 will as well.  I can't speak to cat8 as I have not yet looked closely enough at it, but I bet it always has this configuration as well.  Look for good reviews and a high megahertz rating for future-proofing.

You mean cat7 and cat8 bulk cable (no ends)? Yes, they will work great with this type of cable.

Or were you wondering if you can cut a manufactured cable (with ends) and use it with the jacks? I do not recommend doing this ever.

Or do you mean can you simply plug a cat7 or cat8 cable with ends into the jack?  Yes, they will work great with all cat5/6/7/8 cables RJ45 which is standard and forwards/backwards compatible.

Desktop Computers ----> Do NOT need Ethernet grounding adapter.  They are grounded AND have groundable ports.  They will ground your Ethernet cable - this is deal.

1.  Do not connect a desktop computer to an already-grounded switch or router (with metal groundable ports) directly with a shielded ethernet cable.  Use the Ethernet ground loop isolator AT the switch or router.

Laptops ----> 98% of time are NOT grounded, unless plugged into a grounded monitor (screen) or grounded printer.  Very few laptops are grounded.  Even 3-prong power cord laptops are usually ungrounded - the ground doesn't go all the way up to the laptop it dies in the AC adapter (charger) box.

Use the Ultimate USB to Ethernet for laptops.  Then connect shielded cable.  Then isolate with ethernet ground loop isolator at the switch or router if said switch/router is already grounded by something else and has metal groundable ports.

2.  You could connect your modem to our router directly with a shielded ethernet cable.  It probably wouldn't make much difference if our router becomes grounded or not.  Then isolate every run to every computer.  Ground the computer and the Ethernet cable (desktops do this automatically).

Does that make sense?

3.  There is no written warranty, but we do stand behind our routers.  We have really not had any issues with routers.  Just do NOT use the reset button on the router, as this would erase all of our important settings.  This is why we cover it with a sticker and say not to use it.

Yes, we have had very good success with our low-emission WiFi router - it's a very popular item and works very well.

For you, I would just hook the FIOS modem directly to our router.  The desktop computer directly to our router.  All other computers I would use the isolator mentioned above plugged into the other ports on the router.  Then I would hook other devices into our router through those isolators.

For the time being your laptop being ungrounded is probably the biggest concern.  But I would really get rid of their router ASAP, because that is also a huge concern as it is probably putting our radiation.

I think you are confused with networking technology.  Our router should work fine with all ISPs when hooked up to their modem.  Turning off the power to the modem for 1 minute is good, then turn it back on after you have hooked up our router.  This should reset everything and our router should work plug-and-play right out of the box :)