I'm not sure which paper you are referring to. Hmmm. Let me know when you are ready and we can talk. We could potentially get Dave on the line as well.
This really isn't our specialty, but I've never heard of plain old analog meters have any date recording capability. All they do is measure how many watts have gone through the unit. So without some automated reading capability (electronic module) or something like that I don't see how they something like the date the meter was removed could be ascertained from an old fashioned analog meter like the kind we carry.
There are so many things you could do in a new construction situation to reduce the EMF (magnetic, electric, and dirty electricity) from wiring. It really depends on your needs and your budget.
Having oversized wire coming in (particularly the neutral) could help in some situations - or seeing that they use finer stranded (more strands) cable - that's even better. Metal conduit the whole way will shield the electric fields, but you will still have some magnetic field very near to the conduit - so run this considering living and sleeping spaces especially so that you don't throw a field where someone is going to sleep.
You could have a main breaker panel for the big loads, and a separate subpanel for the smaller loads, and use something like the DNA Line Filter in between. So you could have the rooms where you spend the most time, including bedrooms, on this "protected" subpanel - the DNA line filter will offer protection from dirty electricity from the rest of the house. Just don't use any electronics on the protect circuits. We carry the DNA line filters - they work well but aren't cheap.
We also recommend shutting the power off at night to all sleeping areas - any live wires that are near the sleeping areas.
The Stetzerizer filters will do the trick for filtering by the main breaker panel and also out on branch circuits. I don't have a whole house system I recommend at this time. I only know of one EMF guy who uses a different filter near the breaker panel but I'm not sure how big if any of a difference this makes as I haven't tested it myself. I'm sure I will discuss that more, but for now we just recommend the Stetzerizer Filters - they perform extremely well.
Make sure the electrician does NOT connect neutrals from multiple circuits. Every circuit should have its own dedicated neutral - all the current going out on a romex cable from the main breaker should return on that same romex. I would also avoid multi-wire branch circuits. Seriously - spend the extra $10 or $20 it costs to wire completely independent circuits so that there isn't wire sharing and elevated magnetic fields as well as harder-to-deal-with dirty electricity that we see often times in kitchens where they do MWBC. It isn't the worst thing in the world, but they do often behave strangely so it's just nicer to avoid having them.
These are just a few of the things off the top of my head. There is so much more that can be done. I would recommend the phone consulting and then we can get a much better look at the situation and give you personalized recommendations for your needs. Probably 1 hour of phone consulting would save you a lot of mistakes/hassles and get you the best possible results.
Unfortunately all of the dimmers available for residential use produce lots of dirty electricity. They all dim using the same method pretty much. So there are no safe dimmers out there. They will all produce a very large amount of dirty electricity and RF as well (you can pick that up with an AM radio). We have looked and tested different dimmers and verified the above statements to be accurate. The only clean way for lower lighting is lamps or more switches to control more bulbs.
I moved this question to the public open forum so others could benefit from it as well. I masked your name (you can unmask it in your profile if you wish).
From what I have seen - the light elements in ALL of the modern LED bulbs run on DC and therefore the bulbs must have electronics that switch the AC power provided by the house to DC to power the elements. This is a dirty operation. Some are better than others, though it depends on which meter or scope we use. I don't believe any of them are truly clean - they all produce some high frequencies - it is inherent to the way they use power in short little spikes.
We used to have some bulbs that appeared OK on the Stetzerizer Meter, but we had one customer that was getting high readings from the bulb in his home. I suspect it was interacting with other frequencies or with another device. Because of this one incident, I made the decision to discontinue selling the LED bulbs. I always err on the side of caution, even if it means taking a considerable loss as we did with the bulbs. I may liquidate those bulbs we have left, and simply warn would-be purchasers about the potential for dirty electricity or other energy pollution from them.
But as far as carrying a product and highlighting a real solution - that is why I went with the Clean Halogens. While the energy savings isn't as good as LED or CFL, it is a perfectly clean load on the system just like incandescent bulbs. How valuable is your health? I don't use any LED or CFL bulbs or dimmer switches in my home. It is all Clean Halogen and incandescent. I think it's important to keep the electrical system as clean as possible.
If you buy LEDs from the store, for example you buy 10 bulbs like you said all the same make/model, then they should behave the same if they are from the same lot. I have seen bulbs vary from one lot to another lot - after a slight design change in the electronics of the bulb. So I would highly recommend testing each bulb with the Stetzerizer Meter. But even the Stetzerizer Meter doesn't show everything.
The Stetzerizer (also called Graham Stetzer) Filters will not filter RF radiation going through the air the originates from a wireless device that is purposely generating such radiation - such as a WiFi router, cordless phone system, cell tower, etc. For these types of devices we recommend eliminating any and all in the house. For signals coming from outside we like to measure and then we will consider shielding them depending on the levels and other things.
The filters can remove RF radiation that originates from certain things like power supplies, LED/CFL lighting, electronics, etc. These types of devices generate electrical "noise" or what is often called dirty electricity which can definitely get into the radiofrequency range and the filters can remove much of this.
But normally for RF radiation like microwave radiation (microwave ovens, cell towers, cell phones, wifi, bluetooth, baby monitors, cordless phones, smart meter communication signals, smart appliances, etc) you need to measure with an RF meter and if you can't get rid of or replace it (if it's coming from outside or something) then you would need to shield it.
Customer support service by UserEcho