Your comments

Yes, you would just need a plug adapter because the PxDNA is supplied with a US (North American) style 2-prong plug.  But voltage and frequency - it will work fine in Japan with that voltage :)

Hi Alex,


You would have to construct your own plug.  You could use our adapter, and perhaps find a UK to US plug adapter that will pass the ground connection through?  Otherwise you would have to wire your own plug end onto our adapter.


Would you like us to send you one of our adapters?

We aren't aware of any commercially-available meters for 5G yet.  I know companies are working on them, but there isn't a meter that I can recommend at this time for 5G.  I'm sure there will be meters soon.  I really, really, hope so.  It is needed!

For lamps, the method we usually use is using our 18 gauge all-purpose shielded power cord.  They come in 6 feet and 12 feet lengths.  We often splice those cords in the bottom base of the lamp and ground the metal body of the lamp (if there is a metal body) by attaching the ground cord to the nut on the bottom of the threaded metal tube at the base of the lamp.  There are many different types/configurations/styles of lamps, but there is usually a way to get it done somehow :)


We are working on a shielding material to retro-fit cords that can't be replaced.  We hope to have a kit available soon.

I see you signed up.  Thank you, I look forward to talking to you and getting to the bottom of these issues!

Hi Michelle,


I see that you signed up for phone consulting.  Thank you - this is definitely the best way to discuss these types of things since there is a lot of information to go over and I will have some questions for you as well.  Sometimes we can shield a transformer, but sometimes there is "net current" in the electrical distribution system, which results in elevated fields along the lines coming to and from the transformer.


I look forward to speaking with you on the phone! :)

Hi Michelle,


More information is needed for this.  What are you measuring with, what are you picking up?  I might recommend a phone call with me where we can go into detail on this issue and find a solution for you.

14 gauge cords are capable of up to 15 amps - what most circuit breakers in homes are rated for.  So things like surge suppressors (power strips) usually use a large 14-gauge 15 amp wire.  16 gauge is a smaller wire - capable of safely carrying less current.  So the higher the gauge (also called AWG) number the smaller the wire.  16 gauge is rated for 13 amps.  18 gauge is rated for 10 amps.


Keep in mind even 10 amps is A LOT of power.  Twenty (20) 60-watt incandescent light bulbs would use 10 amps of power.  Our shielded 18 gauge 10 amp cords are commonly used for computers, monitors, some TVs and stereos, some printers, and to rewire lamps and things with lower current draw.


16 gauge extension cords are the typical everyday extension cord.


14 gauge heavy duty (larger wire size) cords handle up to 15 amps and are used for running multiple devices or power tools - larger things.  They have also been used to rewire appliances and larger devices like that.  This is the size we use in our shielded surge suppressor.  This is the size typically used for big things.

I was referring to an automated/remote lighting control system.  I was not referring to a utility meter.  That's a shame - those electronic utility meters are terrible.  It would be much better to have analog.  I always suggest fighting at all costs to keep the analog.


There are some heftier pass-through filters available.  They need to be installed by an electrician.  They are costly, but block a whole lot of everything coming into the house.  A much more sensible solution is to get that smart meter off rather than paying ten thousand dollars or more for a very robust filtering system.  That sort of filtering system can be good for people who are extremely sensitive though as it protects from other signals coming in from the grid.


Fight and don't take no for an answer.  We all gotta unite and refuse these smart meters and demand analog.

Hi RD,


What we have found is that in most cases, the more shielded cords we use, along with the shielded surge suppressor, the lower the numbers go in electric field measurement.  Installing a shielded cord or surge suppressor does not "extend" to non-shielded cords.  However, it can still greatly reduce electric field measurements, even if you are not able to replace all nearby cords with shielded cords.


So our general recommendation for areas where one spends significant time (work areas, bedrooms, etc) is to replace every cord and surge suppressor possible with our shielded version.  It is always best to verify with measurements as well.  But in the vast majority of cases this reduces the readings and optimizes those areas.


Here's a trick: if you have have a shielded cord next to an unshielded cord, it can help to "attach" the two together with zip ties or tape.  Attaching the shielded cord next to the unshielded cord helps to reduce the fields immensely.


We are working right now on a do-it-yourself kit to retro-shield any cord.  It should be available in the next month.


Have you seen our EHS-Shield shielded power cords?  http://www.ehs-shield.com


We have 14 and 16 gauge extension cords.  We also have 18 gauge power cords with C13 ends on them (the kind commonly used for desktop PCs, desktop Apples, monitors, TVs, some printers and stereos and other electronics).  Simply swap-out your standard unshielded cords with these and your electric field exposure should plummet.


We also use these 18 gauge power cords to rewire lamps.  A qualified professional can change the wire to a lamp and if the lamp is metal-bodied also use the cord to properly ground the lamp at the same time.  This is a must-do in my opinion for lamps.


Let me know if this answers it or if you still need clarification or have any other questions.