That is a fair question.  It is not something we have tested to see the "limits" of so to speak.  In theory there shouldn't be a limit, but for extremely long runs you could certainly ground at the other end.  If you were to ground at the other end, you must use one of our Ethernet Ground Loop Isolators.  Because you do NOT want to ground a shielded, groundable Ethernet cable at both ends.  This would make a ground LOOP and be very undesirable!!

I guess if it were me perhaps greater than 100 feet I would do this.  But I'm just pulling that number out - it is not based on actual testing.

I have seen pads out there, but we have not tested them for effectiveness.  The type of "pad" you would want would actually be a heavy and thick piece of metal that blocks magnetic fields.

But first and foremost - if you EVER use the laptop connected to the charger, you MUST ground the laptop.  You can ground it with our Premium USB Grounding Adapter, or our Ultimate Adapter.  Some laptops also allow - because they have metal on their Ethernet ports - grounding via the Ethernet.  If that is the case, you could use our Ethernet Grounding Adapter if your laptop has the metal tabs or balls inside of its Ethernet port.

I really recommend using the charger as little as possible.  But definitely have the laptop grounded at all times when the charger is in use!

First off - it has to be a shielded Ethernet cable.  The Ethernet Grounding Adapter will not help with an unshielded cable.  The Cat7 cable we sell might offer you added protection as well.

Yes, I would definitely give it a try.  The electric field on cables usually exists because of powerline electric fields.  The shielded cable that is properly grounded with our adapter will be at "ground" potential versus everything else.  This should lower those readings for you - it does in most cases.  There are some more variables, but give it a shot and it should work.

This item has not been tested for RF.  It's purpose is to ground the computer and the Ethernet cable plugged into it.  It also is a passive device - so it does not have an AC adapter power supply - which greatly cuts down on anything generated by it.

I would recommend trying the unit with your computer to see how the two devices work together and if it meets your requirements.  You can always return the item within 30 days if you have any issue with it.

The chances are that the house is grounded through the electrical system.  You may not have ground rods, but there should be a third wire which is ground coming to the house.  Or do you only have 2 wires coming to the house?

You are on 240 volt system there, and the electrical distribution system is designed very differently than in the US.  There are pros and cons of grounding the house with ground rods (earth electrodes).

The use of "grounding" or "earthing" equipment to connect to the body seems to be able to offer benefits to many.  We have heard a great deal of positive anecdotal evidence that it can help health.  However, there are also risks.  I ESPECIALLY do not recommend the use of any of those types of products while at or near electronics such as computers.  This could be VERY bad.  I DO recommend that the computer (laptop) itself be grounded.  We have a number of adapters that will ground your laptops.  This has been shown measurably and also through anecdotal reports to help.  Measurable it can help greatly.

I would not worry about it too much to be honest, Niamh, about whether or not the house itself is grounded with rods or not.  I would look at the wires coming to the house and see if it is grounded - are there 3 wires or only 2?  Or are there metal pipes underground such as water coming to the house?  If so, it is very likely connected to your electrical system either purposely or inadvertently.  

Yes - they should be bi-directional and work fine going backwards.  We have not tested it, but the manufacturer has reported that they will, and I believe we have had customers that do use it with solar/etc to run backwards at times.

Hi Jenn,

Hubs are no longer used - very old technology.  So either you can find a router with 8 ports (not necessary) or use a switch or switches.  I would use switches...as routers are way more expensive.  Metal switches are probably a little better than plastic ones.  Netgear and D-link and tp-link all make metal switches.

For the best network design, we can talk on the phone https://www.electrahealth.com/Personal-Phone-Consulting-with-Shaun-Kranish--Owner-of-ElectraHealthcom_p_77.html

And we can ensure that you are designing the network as optimally as possible and understand how to use it properly :)

You'll want to use one of our surge protectors or power strips that already has the shielded wire.  Yes, the body needs to be metal that's why we use metal.  If you use ours, you don't have to do any shielding to it.  This would just be for cords that you plug in that are unshielded.  You don't want to cut into cords that are unshielded.  You just want to put tape over them and use our grounding cord to make a do-it-yourself shield for the cable.  You would strip the grounding cord the equivalent length of the cord you are shielding so that the grounding cord's bare copper metal touches the shiny side of the tape all of the way along the cord.

the longer the cord (when stretched out) the more area the electric field will be put into.  So the higher exposure in that sense.   You could use one of those cords just to give you a flat end.  You could also shield it manually how we discussed before.

Does this make sense, Will?  So first thing's first is you need to determine if the new monitor/display is already grounded from the factory.  Then you can decide to ground the monitor which will then ground your laptop.  It is good to always check and verify - which can be done with a Continuity Tester or better yet the "body voltage" kit.