Hmmm there's the Russian B&E meter. Maybe some oscilloscopes could be used with the right antenna configuration an settings, or a spectrum analyzer. It is definitely trickier to measure it in the air. Perhaps check with Stetzer Electric to see if they have any recommendations.
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1) The plates are the same as the plates for the paint, here: https://www.electrahealth.com/YShield-Paint-Grounding-Kit_p_171.html You would just need 1 grounding plate per canopy.
2) The plate works best, so I would use the plate with this: https://www.electrahealth.com/Grounding-Cord-with-Outlet-Plug_p_174.html - get one of these for each canopy
3) I don't think it's silly. It wouldn't hurt anything, so you could go ahead and leave that. I would ground it though. You could ground it with one of the grounding cords - we can put an alligator clip on it. That or you'd have to get it into the grounding plate with the fabric. It kind of just depends on how things are situated and how you'd like to do it, but either would work fine :)
Yes, we really do NOT like any canopies that have metallicized/metal coatings on them. The Swiss Shield Naturell Ultra does NOT have metal coating on it. Building Biologists really guide people away from metal coating products and to solid metal, metal thread, etc. Swiss Shield uses metal thread.
The Naturell Ultra uses carbon (graphite) in addition to the metal thread. Normally the protecting coating placed over the metal threads in Swiss Shield fabric acts as an electric insulator, making the fabric non-conductive externally. So the Swiss Shield Naturell Ultra adds carbon to this protecting coating on the wires to make them externally conductive as well. They are not as conductive as pure metal - almost like semi-conductive - but still works well to stop electric fields, for example.
Alligator clips can be used, but a grounding plate that clamps down with pressure screws is going to be more effective. We have these. So you would attach this to a corner or edge that is not visible or in the way, and it will ground the entire canopy. If you have a pure metal floor sheet, you can keep using that. If you have a coated sheet that could flake, you would want to replace it with the Naturell Ultra as well.
This is by far the best fabric, and the canopy design is really great as well. As far as breathability - it is so large that that is not an issue. The cheap and super awkward mosquito-net designed canopies are not as good breathability.
I think your grounding results would be as good, and if for some reason you have any issues we have some ways to improve it as well. However, I think your results will be excellent. It will be a lot safer and better than your current canopy. Your framing system should work fine - it is not overly heavy or anything. I'm sure you'll be able to figure out an acceptable/suitable way to use your current framing/support system.
Let us know about what you have on the floor right now. We will get you all squared away! People love these canopies - we don't get any returns on them ever.
This is very common. It is usually easily fixable too - so that is the good news :) I want you to get a deeper understanding of the problem, why it happens, and how to fix it. You can do this with our eBook on current on plumbing/pipes/etc and ground loops here: https://www.electrahealth.com/EMF-Bible--Fix-Electrical-Current-on-Your-Plumbing-Pipes-Printable-eBook_p_156.html
I would HIGHLY recommend reading this before having any contractors do any work. This book could save you a fortune. Also, you might consider a consultation where we can go over things 1-on-1 and cover both the water/plumbing pipes and the dryer issue. So before you spend money with an electrician, who could likely do work and not fix the problem, you can get the correct advice for your particular situation and save money and frustration.
I believe it works, but I don't have specific information on that. If you needed to return it, we could do that and waive the restocking fee if it does not work. But most likely it will work great. We are also looking into seeing if we can make one with lightning. But this will probably take some time.
We are currently looking for a good surge suppressor to pair with the shielded 6-outlet power strip. We will test and find a good one that doesn't raise the Stetzerizer readings and offer it alongside the power strip. But I would definitely urge anyone considering the power strip to not hesitate or delay based on lack of surge suppression. The likelihood that lack of surge suppression is going to affect any devices is very, VERY minimal. And then when taking one's own health into consideration, I would much rather be protected versus surge suppression. We will have a solution soon after testing and have an email about it.
We do not sell Stetzerizer filters suitable for 200+ volt. We only sell the 120 volt version, which cannot be adapted or used for 240 volt. The only way they could be would be to properly install 2 stetzerizers in series, but that is complicated and not something the average person could safely do.
We can definitely send you a Microsurge Meter - they are usable with all voltages. We ship to Australia regularly. The best way would be to check out through the website. If there is an issue or anything with the shipping cost, we can double-check it for you (just put a note in the checkout) to make sure it is accurate, but it should be. We do not mark up shipping - the third-party system just calculates it and fairly accurate.
1) The power strip cannot shield another device or cord plugged into it. So it's best to use shielded cords along with the power strip and have the shielded power strip be the one you use nearest people. I would reverse this - plug a surge protection device into the wall and then plug the shielded power strip into the surge suppressor.
2) Daisy chaining isn't ideal and does pose risks. The main risks are poorly-manufactured devices where the outlets could wear out and break and then short. I think over the years devices have improved a lot, and it's not really a concern as much as it used to be. The other risk is the plugs not being securely in one another. You're better off using an extension cord versus daisy-chaining power strips. We sell the shielded extension cords in 14 gauge - so those are very nice and are rated and UL listed even for 15 amps. The loads you describe are probably not that significant. Even though it is a gaming computer, most of them use less current than you'd expect.
3) The outlets on the 7-outlet grounded surge suppressor with grounded USB ports are definitely grounded as well. They are 3-prong grounded outlets as you would expect. So both are grounded.
4) I don't know that there is a rating to look for. I have battery backups and shielded isolation transformers and such. Surge suppressors with an equipment guarantee are probably of higher quality. Tripplite/ISObar/APC are good brands. Stetzerizer filters can also help with surges. There is no surge-proof way to prevent electrical storm damage, but it is also rarely these days. In all the years as an IT consultant and then doing this, lightning damage to equipment is just very rare. That said, I do have to admit I've lost a few items to lightning: a garage door opener, an APC battery backup unit, and an Ethernet port on a computer. One way, perhaps, to help protect a computer would be to use our new fiber optic kit.
Thank you for your question - what do you think?
Pumps are tough because they do tend to throw magnetic fields. The magnetic field is from the motor - the windings of course - and the electric field is from the AC power. The electric field is between the earth and everything on it (building materials) and the "hot" conductor aka ungrounded conductor. Shielding and grounding really aren't an option inside of a tank like this. So the pump is submersible and actually sits in the drinking water for the cat?
You could reduce the electric field by connecting it to an isolation transformer. You would only need a very small one too, so that is an option. This floats the hot/neutral going to the water tank so they don't have a reference to ground. Would also help protect against electrocution too.
Cats seem to love EMF, but dogs and people don't. As for magnetic field, you would have to build a tank that you could then shield with magnetic field shielding material like mumetal and giron. You can't put those metals inside the tank - they would need to be on the outside of the tank. Another solution would be to install an occupancy sensor and have a contactor that defaults to off. Then you could detect when you or the cat are near and it should turn the pump off. Complicated to setup, but would work. Then when you leave it would resume recirculating water.
These are our shielded power strips - they do not have built-in surge protection. Unshielded surge suppressors or power strips emit very large electrical fields. Our power strip is designed to stop that.
If you need surge suppression, there are adapters available that will add that functionality. Isobar and Tripplite make adapters like this. I would highly recommend going this route and keeping the shielded power strips so that you can have the important benefits that they provide as well as the surge suppression you desire.
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