The only way to know if any of these chargers are passing ground (I have serious doubts) or if any of the OTG (on-the-go) adapters pass ground is to do a continuity test.  You can use a multimeter and test for resistance (ohms).  The reading should be low - below 1 ohm.  Always test your ohm meter by touching the leads together and the resistance should be this low.  It will be low when there is continuity between two points.  We can't ever speculate or guess - we always have to test these things because there are not sufficient or adhered-to standards for these types of issues at this time.

The laptop will ground the Ethernet cord only if the Ethernet port on the laptop has metal around it or has metal contacts that are there to purposely connect to shielded cables.

If you want to take a few photos of your laptop's Ethernet port and upload them here - try to make sure they are good clear detailed photos maybe using flash - a couple different angles.  We can then tell you if your laptop will ground the Ethernet cable or not.  If not, you would definitely want an Ethernet Grounding Adapter.

Your monitor does serve to ground the laptop since the monitor has a 3-prong high volt cord that goes all the way up to the monitor.  Some monitors have AC adapters - these types of monitors have a power brick or adapter and a skinny little low voltage cord going to the monitor.  That kind of monitor would be UNgrounded.  You should, however, get a shielded cord from our store for this monitor.

It sounds like your switch is all plastic?  No metal around the Ethernet ports?  Metal trim and tabs that go inside the ports?  What about the laptop?  Does its Ethernet have metal trim/tabs/balls?  Or is it ungroundable.

3 Prong does help a lot, but SHIELDED is infinitely superior to that even.  So if you can use our shielded cables and surge suppressors, you will be best.

Are you talking about a desktop computer?  It is probably already in a steel case.  Sometimes the front is largely plastic, so that is a problem.  Using a fabric - it has to be a conductive fabric like the Naturell Ultra.  There are better-suited fabrics made of stainless steel (solid).  I do NOT recommend any copper or nickel or any metal-COATED fabrics.  Stay clear of these as the metal coatings flake and dust and powder...that is NOT something you want to breathe in or have on your skin.  The best thing to do is get the computer away from you as far as possible.  If it is a laptop, it needs to be grounded.  More distance and then longer cables can often provide relief.

The Premium USB plug is great for laptops.  For laptops without Ethernet or without groundable Ethernet the Ultimate Ethernet Adapter is even far superior.

You need to get electric fields extremely low before doing something like that in the room.  You can measure with one of these e-field meters. Bed canopies are most effective, our favorite being our new exclusive conductive canopy.  We have received a lot of positive feedback from customers on these canopies of recovery from health issues and improvement in health issues.

We do not currently sell "earthing" equipment due to serious risks to health.  In many instances these products actually increase exposure to unwanted high frequency EMI/EMR/EMF and cause people to get ill.  Definitely do not use them near electronics or wiring.  Best to be used with all of the power shut off.  Use at your own risk and see how your body responds - you have may a very positive result but listen carefully to your body.

You may not need a meter, but they are definitely extremely helpful at identifying what you are sensitive to.  It's really flying blind without a meter.  But always listen to your body as well.  You can call us at 1-815-986-7974 if we can help.  We can also schedule a phone consult if you would like personalized support from me.  Thank you!

3) IF you have a router that only has plastic ports, then it is not possible to ground the router.  IF you have one of our routers, then it has metal ports and it is ground-able.  If you then ground one of our routers through any port, ALL ports will have ground.  It will therefore pass ground to all cables that you plug in.  This can be good OR bad.  We do NOT want to double-ground anything.

4) If you purchase the Ultimate adapter, you can use it without Ethernet.  You can still just plug the adapter in to the ground and use it as a grounding adapter.  Ethernet is not required.  But this is the preferred way we want to do it so that it grounds your Ethernet when you use Ethernet.  So this would be my recommendation.

5) Daisy-chaining switches is no problem, as long as you keep it I would recommend 4 devices max.  It is always better to home-run them so that they hook to the master switch/router.  I've done 3 devices such as router to switch to switch before.  It's not a problem - especially if you aren't running heavy traffic like work computers or advanced expert power users.

So what you would probably want to do here is use the Isolator in between the second switch and the desktop computer.  The second metal  switch will be getting ground from the first metal switch via the shielded Cat 7 cable.  The desktop computer is already grounded and will ground the cat7 cable you plug into it.  So therefore you need to isolate it from the switch.

That is how I would do it.

Your cable modem looks like it does not have a groundable Ethernet port.  It looks all plastic.  So the only metal you see inside are the gold plated 8 pins?  No silver-colored tabs or clips or anything?

The router has to be plugged-in directly to the modem.  You can't go through a switch or something for that.  That would not work.  So modem to router then router to switches or router to switch to switch.

Ditch the USB to Ethernet you have now.  The best way to do it is with our Ultimate adapter because we want that ethernet cord to be grounded at the same location as the computer.  This way you would also not need the Ethernet grounding adapter

We have 2 WiFi router models at the moment

The R6 which is an AC1750 router 450 mbits @ 2.4 ghz and 1300 @ 5 ghz.

The R7 which is an AC1900 router 600 mbits @ 2.4 ghz and 1300 @ 5 ghz.

The specs of the routers are just about identical, except that the R7 also has an extra USB 2.0 port in addition to the USB 3.0 port.

The R6 is currently $60 cheaper.  So it depends on how many devices you have and if you will be using 5 ghz or not.  Out of the box the routers come with 5 ghz disabled.  It can easily be enabled again by logging into the router and going into the settings.

Either router would probably work just as well for you.  You can hardwire into this router any devices that you would like.  You can also connect to WiFi with this.  It also has a button on the top so that WiFi can be turned off and on whenever you would like.  Turning on/off WiFi does not affect the wired networking - the wired networking is on all the time :)

DO NOT get flat cables - they are not all grounded correctly or as well and will likely fail to provide proper EMF/EMR protection.

All Cat7 is 4 pair and foil shielded.  I think they are all gold plated as well.

The 30 AWG wire you are looking at is inferior to the wire we carry.  Our cables are 27 AWG - which means the conductor wires are significantly larger.  The smaller the number of the wire gauge, the larger the wire.  The larger size of the wire in our cables means that resistance is significantly lower for a better signal quality.

I would really just recommend to stick with our Cat7 and know you're getting quality cables that will not only be shielded right and properly groundable, but will also provide the best signal.

I am working on a guide to explain optimal Ethernet setup for grounding and shielding.  It is best to start at each computer and ensure they are grounded.  Ground the Ethernet cable at each computer as well.  Desktops already do this.  For laptops you may need an adapter which we carry.

Then as each shielded, grounded Ethernet run goes back to a metal switch or hub we like to isolate them.  I have gone into this a bit in another thread here: https://support.electrahealth.com/communities/4/topics/8704-grounding-for-modem-router-and-switch-question

I like routers and switches to be grounded one time through one port only.  I like the other ports to use isolators to avoid ground loops.  I like computers and their ethernet cables to be fully grounded AT the computer NOT having ground come from the switch.

There are many filtering options when it comes to solar systems.  The biggest question is really what kind of budget you have or are willing to work with.  Unfortunately solar creates a huge amount of dirty electricity.  The more you spend to filter it, the more effective the filtering is.  Every inverter is different, so we sometimes can find solutions to meet a specific inverter.

Our DNA filters are very effective with solar.  I usually would recommend combining those with Stetzerizer Filters.  The V2X filters plus Stetzerizer filters would be a minimum.  You would most likely need 2 of these: https://www.electrahealth.com/RxDNA-V2X-ResidentialModerate-High-Performance-Parallel-Filter_p_180.html

And probably 4 or 6 Stetzerizer filters at the main panel.  We also want to look at the kind of lighting and other devices you have in the house.  I would highly recommend a phone consulting session so we can tailor fit solutions for you.  It is not a one-size-fits-all type of thing.  We will look deeply into your whole house - not just the solar system - and give you a great deal of recommendations to reduce your exposure.

I haven't heard any rumors like that.  I haven't heard of any pushback against manufacturers of meters.  They are catching up.  I think the higher frequencies are currently more expensive to measure.