We currently do not. However, we recommend cable that has individually foiled pairs (there are 4 pairs inside and each pair of wires is wrapped in foil) and then has an overall metal braid around the 4 pairs of foiled wired. Cat7 usually has this configuration. Some cat6 will as well. I can't speak to cat8 as I have not yet looked closely enough at it, but I bet it always has this configuration as well. Look for good reviews and a high megahertz rating for future-proofing.
You mean cat7 and cat8 bulk cable (no ends)? Yes, they will work great with this type of cable.
Or were you wondering if you can cut a manufactured cable (with ends) and use it with the jacks? I do not recommend doing this ever.
Or do you mean can you simply plug a cat7 or cat8 cable with ends into the jack? Yes, they will work great with all cat5/6/7/8 cables RJ45 which is standard and forwards/backwards compatible.
Desktop Computers ----> Do NOT need Ethernet grounding adapter. They are grounded AND have groundable ports. They will ground your Ethernet cable - this is deal.
1. Do not connect a desktop computer to an already-grounded switch or router (with metal groundable ports) directly with a shielded ethernet cable. Use the Ethernet ground loop isolator AT the switch or router.
Laptops ----> 98% of time are NOT grounded, unless plugged into a grounded monitor (screen) or grounded printer. Very few laptops are grounded. Even 3-prong power cord laptops are usually ungrounded - the ground doesn't go all the way up to the laptop it dies in the AC adapter (charger) box.
Use the Ultimate USB to Ethernet for laptops. Then connect shielded cable. Then isolate with ethernet ground loop isolator at the switch or router if said switch/router is already grounded by something else and has metal groundable ports.
2. You could connect your modem to our router directly with a shielded ethernet cable. It probably wouldn't make much difference if our router becomes grounded or not. Then isolate every run to every computer. Ground the computer and the Ethernet cable (desktops do this automatically).
Does that make sense?
3. There is no written warranty, but we do stand behind our routers. We have really not had any issues with routers. Just do NOT use the reset button on the router, as this would erase all of our important settings. This is why we cover it with a sticker and say not to use it.
Yes, we have had very good success with our low-emission WiFi router - it's a very popular item and works very well.
For you, I would just hook the FIOS modem directly to our router. The desktop computer directly to our router. All other computers I would use the isolator mentioned above plugged into the other ports on the router. Then I would hook other devices into our router through those isolators.
For the time being your laptop being ungrounded is probably the biggest concern. But I would really get rid of their router ASAP, because that is also a huge concern as it is probably putting our radiation.
I think you are confused with networking technology. Our router should work fine with all ISPs when hooked up to their modem. Turning off the power to the modem for 1 minute is good, then turn it back on after you have hooked up our router. This should reset everything and our router should work plug-and-play right out of the box :)
For cable modems, we always recommend using the Ethernet Ground Loop Isolator between the modem and the router. For FIOS you could hook the modem up directly to the router I believe - as the modems are not grounded. Though perhaps to be safe it's best to use the isolator. Then I would have your desktop directly plugged into the router. Then I would isolate with the ethernet ground loop isolator any and all other Ethernet cables where they plug into our router.
You can never trust a router supplied by an Internet Service Provider. We have seen far too many routers that even when you think you've turned the WiFi off, they still are putting out the signal. All settings can be off, the WiFi light can go off, and we have still seen the radiation pumping out of the routers. Likewise, as you said, the ISP could reset/update the router at any time and get rid of your settings or turn on some settings you can't see and cause radiation to again be transmitted 24/7 from the router without you knowing. The only way would be to check regularly with an RF meter. But if you use our router, you won't have to check - the ISP cannot change settings on our router. It is in your control completely, and you can always expect it to emit the lowest possible radiation when WiFi is on. And you can also turn off WiFi on our router with the push of a button at any time you wish.
Thank you for allowing us to share your questions and answers!
We have not tested the Ecos router. But I am confident our router is better - lower emissions. I have heard specs of the other router, and our specs are better for low emissions. Correct, your desktop computer just needs a round shielded cable.
The Ultimate USB to Ethernet is the one we recommend for the laptop.
I have a Verizon FiOS modem and router and their modem is fixed so it cannot be replaced by another. Their routers are separate units.
Do you need to use their router which is a separate unit? Or can you use your own router with their modem?
I am able to turn the wifi off when logging into my account though I do not know if that sufficiently blocks wifi signal from getting through. I also believe that I can log directly into the router online and fine tune its settings by typing my IP address into any web browser but have not done that yet in order to double check if radio signal is disabled from there.
You would absolutely need to double-check with a good RF meter, because you can NEVER believe the settings of the router as far as emissions of the router. Routers can emit even when the wireless light is off and everything is disabled and looks and says disabled.
I want to try to eliminate the wifi entirely and connect both a Macbook Air to a grounded ethernet connection from the router as well as to ground my iMac desktop computer. I need your shielded cables and grounding adapters I am presuming. But do I need a grounding adapter for the desktop computer as well?
Yes, we recommend our round high-quality shielded cables, Cat6 or Cat7 are both good. The desktop is already grounded and will ground the cable you plug into it.
The desktop computer's power cable is all ready grounded so will the grounding adapter be necessary for that device or just a shielded cable extending from the router?
Also, what would you recommend for grounding an iPhone? The phone cannot be grounded at all times though, obviously.
I want to ground all connections and have the wifi turned off completely in order to lower EMF exposure as well as to eliminate EMI exposure from all devices.
If you are using the phone on battery it doesn't not need to be grounded. If you are using it while it is plugged-in to a charger, please use our USB Grounding Adapter. You would place this in-between the charging block/brick/wall-plug and the USB charging cable. You will need a charging cable that has a standard USB A on one end.
So I want to ground connections, correct? Does the router itself need to be grounded?
The router itself would need either a USB port or groundable metal ethernet ports that have the metal trim and metal tabs going into the port on each side of the port. If it has these groundable ports, the router will becoming grounded when it is plugged-into your desktop PC. Then we actually recommend isolating this ground and grounding laptop devices and phones AT THE DEVICE itself with another adapter. You would isolate the grounds by using the Ethernet Ground Loop Isolator and plugging that isolator into the router. This is only needed if the router has groundable metal ports. You would use an isolator for every other ethernet run besides the desktop computer. Then you would ground laptops ideally with the Ultimate Grounding USB to Ethernet Adapter
Please let me know what you recommend that I pick up.
Thanks for all help!
You bet - thanks again for your patience. I hope that this helps to clear things up. Please reply if you have any additional questions. Would it be OK with you if we made your questions and these answers public so that they could benefit other people?
You can also offer your neighbors one of our WiFi routers, starting with the neighbor with the most powerful WiFi closest to your sleeping area I would recommend. It's very hit-and-miss on which routers can be adjusted. Flashing the firmware is very risky too - it's not something you would be able to convince a neighbor to do. So only if the current firmware on their router allows some power adjustment and also beacon rate or beacon interval adjustment...
Or just give them our router and it's ready to go :)
There are lots of electromagnetic exposures in the car that could affect sleep. The lighting and display screens and blue light are one. Microwave (radiofrequency) radiation from the Bluetooth, WiFi, etc built-in to the car is another. You should measure with an RF Meter to see what the car is producing.
Another exposure can be lane assist/blind-spot assist (radar). Then you have the ignition system and arcing (high frequencies) and alternator, and all of the metal moving parts in the engine compartment. Lastly that I can think of for now would be steel-belted tires.
Cars are LOADED with unnatural EMF to summarize. It could most certainly interfere with sleep among many other issues.
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